etymological ambiguities

On our last afternoon in the little library with a view of the Tuscan hills, Alessandro told us about The End. "In Italian," he explained, "the word can mean two things. It is only a changement of the masculine or the feminine." Which sounds ridiculous, but Italians like to complicate life like this. You can use prego in about a hundred different ways. Same with allora, or quindi. And while la fine means the end, il fine means the aim, or the goal.

Like most wordy things, I like that.

Tomorrow I'm off to Munich, the last stop in my Farewell Tour. By Tuesday night I'll be home. And with three hours left in November, this seems a good place to stop.


LA FINE

:::of Europe. they say it changes you. I'd have to agree. hoping it's a good thing.

:::of the Brunette Ambition Tour 2008. no better way to go out with a bang. loving these last few magical days with my mum and sisters, who manage to make me laugh and cry all in one moment.

:::of this little chapter in my life. a little worried about what comes next---I worked toward studying abroad for so long, it's hard to realise that it's over.


IL FINE

:::a whole month of arting! mum and I have a full list of projects for the coming holiday weeks. am already planning paper patterns and canvas collages.

:::a marathon. so many people and places and things to see, so many stories and lives and thoughts to hear and tell. scheduling dinner parties and no-sleep sleepovers on every spare scrap of paper I can find.

:::a new challenge. don't much like being in a foreign country without the language to go along with it. think I might learn German.


I know I'm going to miss this. But I also can hardly wait for Home, my Whole Family, and the New Year.

Tschüss!

a true story from a long time ago

Hey.
Hey.
You headed home?
Mm-hmm.
Are you okay?
Yeah. Yeah. Just feeling quiet.
Should I not talk?
No, you’re all right.
Oh. Pressure. I don’t know what to say now.
Well, what were you going to say before?
I don’t know. Anything.
Were you going to make me laugh?
Probably. I like your laugh.
I stole it from my mom.

: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :

I think the above is true for pretty much every aspect of my character—my art, my handwriting, my love of home, that crazy voice I like to talk to cats with: it’s all hers.

And now she’s up and taken us through Italy, Switzerland, Austria and Germany without a stumble, innately knowing North from South and switching languages just as frequently as we crossed borders. Isn’t she just first class? I am glad, at least, that I managed to nab that laugh. And I'll keep striving, of course, for all the rest.

austria

Coat mittens hat. Frozen air. Christmas lights. Pine boughs. Straw stars. Silent night. Down comforters. Hot water bottle. So happy.

dankeschön

It's funny, isn't it, that my most favorite Thanksgivings have been so far from home? Today I am grateful for:

:::seven-hour train trips (and holding your breath through the Alpine tunnels)

:::conversations only sisters could have (". . .and that's how I feel about Prop 8."---"Do you think Angela will get married?"---"I love Volvos.")

:::wooden bridges over icy lakes (and an H&M on the other side)

:::raclette with dear friends (and a family history that pulls me to this country like no other)

:::Switzerland (and the inspiration in every wooded valley and frozen lake)

Also, meine Mutter, for speaking German as if she speaks nothing else. My dad and brother, for going this holiday alone. And German keyboards, for making this post so much harder to type than it should have been.

sienese holiday

Okay, so it doesn't quite have that Hepburn ring to it--but I promise you just as much fun, even without Gregory Peck. Most people take this Tuscan town as a day trip and, I'll be honest, that's really all you'd need if you're doing the tourist thing. But if you have a few extra hours outside the requisite Duomo visit and a lazy afternoon people watching nel Campo, here are a few of my favorite things:

CONTRADA FOUNTAINS:::
Like I said earlier, Siena is divided into 17 neighborhoods, or contrada, each with a mascot and some serious pride. Each contrada also has a meeting house, museum, church and---huzzah!---a fountain. The former three are open only to contrada members, but if you're up for the wander, tracking down all 17 fountains is good for an afternoon of adventuring and so much fun. I'll even give you a head start: check out the Unicorn fountain on Via del Porrione, just off the Piazza del Campo.

KOPOCABANA:::
Both the cheapest gelato in town and the largest helpings---win-win. It's not the most fabulous gelato you'll ever have in your whole entire life, but the price is right, and the staff always up to helping you with your pronunciation. Try: fondente,

CEMETERIA MISERICORDIA:::
A strange addition to any itinerary, but if you're used to gardened lawns and white crosses, I suggest a look into this small cemetery just outside the city. Tip-toe through the candle-lit hallways and be sure to climb down into the crypt, then take in a sweeping view of the surrounding countryside from the small grassy knoll at the far end.

IL MERCATO:::
If you're visiting on a Wednesday, make room for an early morning at Piazza del Gramsci, where the weekly market sets up with everything from underwear to outerwear, in neons to neutrals. The market snakes through several streets and out past the city walls, moving from flowers to home goods to food to fashion, and is open from 7 to 2.

FOUNTAIN OF FONTEBRANDA:::
This might be a stop solely for students of the humanities---Siena's ancient aquaduct pool, cited in the thirtieth canto of Dante's Inferno. But it's a quick look-and-leave, so drag all your friends there, too, just to see this haunting black fountain under San Domenico.

As always, I could go on. But if you're really looking for more, comment with your question---and make room for me in your suitcase, too.

table, table, i am hungry*

What's Italy without the food? Next time you're in Florence, try:

PUGI:::
for a snack
Fabulous focaccia in all sorts of styles, conveniently located just across the way from Fra Angelico's cells at San Marco. Just be prepared to stand in line a while, and ready to order at your number's call. It would be nice to share a wee bit of your spoils with the sparrows in the square, too. Recommend: zucchini+rosemary ciabatta.

(Piazza del San Marco)


DUE FRATELLI:::
for lunch
You know when they say hole-in-the-wall? Well, it is. Quite literally. But you won't find better panini for miles around, and certainly not at two euro a pop. These two brothers know how to serve them up right: just list up your preferences and they'll pile on the pesto at their tiny space off Via dei Calzaiuoli. Recommend: wild boar + fresh pecorino.

(one street past Festival del Gelato)


FESTIVAL DEL GELATO:::
for always
Desperate for some Lion chocolate? A cup of Kinder and kiwi? If Festival del Gelato doesn't have it, no one else will either. Seventy-five different flavors to choose from on any given day, plus a lot of color and liberal neon lighting---indecisive types be warned. Recommend: fig, strawberry mousse, baci.

(Via del Corso 75r)
__________________________
*if you happen to know the rest of that song, full lyrics would be much appreciated. driving me crazy.

it is fate. but call it Italy if you like, vicar.

Further from Florence than you'd like? No worries, we'd love to have you along. Simply

::forget the Baedeker
::put some flowers in your hair
and
::fall in love