sienese holiday

Okay, so it doesn't quite have that Hepburn ring to it--but I promise you just as much fun, even without Gregory Peck. Most people take this Tuscan town as a day trip and, I'll be honest, that's really all you'd need if you're doing the tourist thing. But if you have a few extra hours outside the requisite Duomo visit and a lazy afternoon people watching nel Campo, here are a few of my favorite things:

CONTRADA FOUNTAINS:::
Like I said earlier, Siena is divided into 17 neighborhoods, or contrada, each with a mascot and some serious pride. Each contrada also has a meeting house, museum, church and---huzzah!---a fountain. The former three are open only to contrada members, but if you're up for the wander, tracking down all 17 fountains is good for an afternoon of adventuring and so much fun. I'll even give you a head start: check out the Unicorn fountain on Via del Porrione, just off the Piazza del Campo.

KOPOCABANA:::
Both the cheapest gelato in town and the largest helpings---win-win. It's not the most fabulous gelato you'll ever have in your whole entire life, but the price is right, and the staff always up to helping you with your pronunciation. Try: fondente,

CEMETERIA MISERICORDIA:::
A strange addition to any itinerary, but if you're used to gardened lawns and white crosses, I suggest a look into this small cemetery just outside the city. Tip-toe through the candle-lit hallways and be sure to climb down into the crypt, then take in a sweeping view of the surrounding countryside from the small grassy knoll at the far end.

IL MERCATO:::
If you're visiting on a Wednesday, make room for an early morning at Piazza del Gramsci, where the weekly market sets up with everything from underwear to outerwear, in neons to neutrals. The market snakes through several streets and out past the city walls, moving from flowers to home goods to food to fashion, and is open from 7 to 2.

FOUNTAIN OF FONTEBRANDA:::
This might be a stop solely for students of the humanities---Siena's ancient aquaduct pool, cited in the thirtieth canto of Dante's Inferno. But it's a quick look-and-leave, so drag all your friends there, too, just to see this haunting black fountain under San Domenico.

As always, I could go on. But if you're really looking for more, comment with your question---and make room for me in your suitcase, too.